That muffled garbling you hear? IT’S ME, SAYING G’DAY. FROM THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. IN AUSTRALIA. Settle in: I’m back with my yearly travel magnum opus, DOWN UNDER EDITION. Throw on your Men at Work record and grab your Vegemite toast, because we’re (temporarily) escaping to another continent! We have kangaroos. Snorkeling. Koalas. Wombats. Wallabies. Crocodiles. Helicopters. A precarious hot air balloon ride. Architecture. Herding dogs. AND THERE’S SO MUCH MORE, GUYS.
Brenda and I are newly-returned from 3 weeks of non-stop travel across Australia and New Zealand, and today, I’m going to yap all about it. If you’re planning a trip down under, this might help! And if you’re just trying to escape reality for a bit, this will DEFINITELY help. Kangaroo photos are below… (Yes, I pet one. And no, I likely won’t ever shut up about it.) Buckle up – the day by day breakdown starts now.
December 6: We arrived at LAX with only carry-on bags in tow. This was a trip – you know, an adventure! – and as such, we travelled to a new place every 2 to 3 days. Who wants to repack and schlep a big ol’ bag around every other day? NOT THESE GALS.
We flew for 12 hours to Auckland, grabbed some airport breakfast, and caught our next 4 hour flight to Melbourne. By the time we’d landed, we traveled a whole day into the future – we were 19 whole hours ahead of LA time and 22 hours ahead of the east coast.
Melbourne
December 8 + 9 + 10: Before I left for Australia, several of my former coworkers issued the same warnings: “It’s a long way to go,” they said. “You’re going to feel like you’ve stepped off the plane and into Santa Monica.” And respectfully, I must reply: WHAT IS EVERYONE TALKING ABOUT?!
As an American, Melbourne is a radical experience. A totally walkable city? Free public transit in commercial districts? Clean streets? Small businesses everywhere? Free college that only needs to be paid back once you’re earning over $75,000? Covered healthcare? And it was far more afforable than several of our major American cities, to boot (though this was mainly aided by the conversion rate – $60 USD is worth $100 AUD!).
All that to say: I LOVED IT. I loved the slew of small businesses that dotted every alleyway. I loved the centuries-old arcades, peppered with petite storefronts. I loved the free tram, and the friendly people, and the thoughtfully-planned city layout. If you’re new to international travel, Melbourne would be a FABULOUS first destination.
What to See: We stayed at the Langham, right off the Yarra river in the heart of the city. I can’t recommend that location enough – it’s walkable to EVERYTHING. We loved exploring the CBD (“central business district” – a very popular descriptor outside of America!), were particularly fond of The Block Arcade, and had a blast at the Queen Victoria Market. (Grab a bite from one of the specialty vendors first, then head outside to walk the aisles – if you love a flea market or swap meet, this will be right up your alley.) The Shrine of Remembrance and Botanical Gardens are also really beautiful, if you have time!
What to Skip: The Skydeck at the Eureka Tower. If you’ve been to the top of a tall building, I’m sure you can imagine what this is like. Your ears will pop on the elevator, though, which is always fun.
Uluru
December 11 + 12: After 3 days in Melbourne, we board a 3 hour flight to the heart of the Australian outback. We’re on our way to Uluru – formerly known as Ayers Rock – and the scenery is breathtaking.
We hopped off the plane and headed straight to Uluru, a massive 550-million-year-old sandstone monolith. It’s a sacred spot for the indigenous Anangu people – located nearly 300 miles from the nearest town – and it’s magnificent. It feels holy. That night, we gathered to watch the rock change colors as the sun set. This was the place Brenda was most excited to visit and I’ve gotta hand it to her: she was right. Uluru is incredible.
I’m going to get real with you for a second: the bugs are out of control. It’s not a myth or an exaggeration! Upon opening our hotel closet, we discovered 2 robes and a huge can of flying insect spray; I found ants in my bed; I will spare you a photo of insects feasting on a huge dead bug in our room. Outside is even worse – the next morning, when we embarked on a quick hike to the Mutitjulu Watering Hole, our tour guide handed out netted face masks. (We were in the minority who didn’t wear them, if that’s any indication of how many freakin’ bugs are out there.)
But it didn’t matter – we had such an incredible experience here. Uluru has been a meeting place for the Anangu for millennia, so the energy is wonderful. We stopped in to Walkatjara Art at the Cultural Center and I bought this piece by Joy Jackson – I can’t wait to get it framed!
What to See: Uluru, obviously. The cultural center is absolutely worth your time (just leave the camera – no photos allowed!). And if you want to buy art, buy it in Uluru! Your payment will go directly to the artist.
What to Skip: We only spent one night here. And honestly, after watching the bug buffet next to my bed, I think one night is likely enough.
Cairns, Daintree, & The Great Barrier Reef
December 13 + 14 + 15: After our morning jaunt, we hopped on a 3 hour flight to Cairns. We landed in the middle of major storm, so we nixed our rainforest gondola plans (we had been hoping to ride the Sky Rail Cableway!) and then caught a 2 hour bus ride to the Daintree Rainforest. We lucked into a room at the Silky Oaks Lodge, an indoor/outdoor hotel right on the Mossman River. It’s buried in the middle of the rainforest and so unbelievable that I forgot to take photos. (At least I was living in the moment, I guess.) The A/C barely worked; the power went out; bugs filled the tub – DIDN’T MATTER. It was extraordinary. I’d do anything to go back!!!
The next day, I checked a massive dream off my miles-long bucket list: we got to snorkel at the Great Barrier Reef. THREE TIMES, GUYS! I’m still pinching myself. We visited three different sites – The Botanic Gardens, The Paddocks, and The Chapel – and it was otherworldly. I only wish my GoPro could capture better colors!
But as it turns out, December is high jellyfish season. We did have to wear special protective suits that covered everything (that’s why I look so beautiful in the opener to this post, clearly), but I’d do it again in a heartbeat. If you’re interested in snorkeling but worried about your skill level, don’t fret – you can still wear a life jacket! I’d HIGHLY recommend this to anyone and everyone.
The next day, we woke up at 3 AM for a long drive down to Mareeba. This was a surprise from Brenda, and it was WONDERFUL. We hopped in our balloon for what was supposed to be a 30 minute ride during sunset, but our balloon had other thoughts – we soared above the bush for over an hour before “bomb landing” (their term, not ours) in a field surrounded by power lines. We braced in our spots and prepared to tip over as balloon staff worked to physically push our basket into a safer spot. (One truck may or may not have been lost in a ditch in the mad dash to make it to our landing site.)
Would I do it again? ABSO-FREAKIN’-LUTELY. I think you should, too! (Just don’t try it in America – it only requires 20 hours of training here, compared to more than 50 in Australia. We were in super capable hands, despite traveling farther than anticipated!)
YEAH, I KNOW. We’re finally getting to the good stuff!!! The next day, we packed our bags and hit the road. Our first stop? Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures. Is a crocodile terrorizing your farm? Send him to Hartley’s. Croc eat your cow? Hartley’s. Croc seemingly having health trouble? Off to Hartley’s!
Hartley’s also takes care of a number of grey kangaroos, wallabies, wombats, koalas, snakes, birds. We scored an invite to their kangaroo and wallaby enclosure, where I FELL IN LOVE.
GET A LOAD OF THESE BABIES! Their tiny teeth! Their silly hands! Their unbridled curiosity! I’ve been so lucky to meet so many different animals this year – wild horses in Argentina, seals in Mexico, penguins in Antarctica – and every time, I’m left feeling a renewed commitment to our planet as a whole. We gotta keep things nice for these little guys, you know? (I posted a video of some of these roos on my Instagram – a photo doesn’t do them justice!)
My love of animals extends to reptiles, too. If you’ve ever dreamed of snuggling a Python (this was wonderful – it was about a million degrees with a trillion percent humidity, so he felt like a giant ice pack!) or embracing a baby crocodile (hold right under the jaw to keep them safe!), Hartley’s is worth a stop.
We also met this nice crocodile, Hagrid (fittingly named for his enormous size), and spent some one-on-one time with a this Koala.
What to See: The Great Barrier Reef wins this one.
What to Skip: I LOVED every single thing we did in Tropical North Queensland. No complaints! No skips! I’ll happily go back. My only word of advice? Don’t go to Hartley’s immediately before heading to the airport – we spent our 3 hour flight to Sydney drenched in sweat.
Sydney
December 15 + 16 + 17: BUT MAN, LOOK AT THIS PLACE! Sydney, you are officially my favorite city in the world. The flight in was incredible – get a load of the bridge and the Opera House! – and we were THRILLED to discover that our hotel had a stunning view of the Harbour Bridge. (When we opened the door to our room the first time, the curtains magically pulled back to reveal our fantastic view. The curtains never opened or shut on their own again – just the one time, when we first walked in – which makes it feel even more special.
The next day, we woke up early for a tour of the Opera House. If you’re an architecture dork (guilty as charged!), this is a MUST-DO. I’d never seen any photos of the inside, and it BLEW ME AWAY. It’s a revelation. Total mastery of engineering and design. And it has such a fraught history, too!
After our tour, we hopped on a small boat for an afternoon sail through the Harbour. This is worth it!!! We eventually stopped for dinner near the Opera House and met a handful of Seagull Patrol dogs – they’re contracted by the city to protect people from pesky flying thieves. The handlers have a blast; the dogs have a blast; local businesses no longer need to extend refunds for spoiled food; and tourists (like us!) love seeing the pups at work.
The next day, we walked through historic Sydney (which, again, looks NOTHING LIKE SANTA MONICA – it puts LA to shame!) before catching a ferry to the town of Manly. I’d hoped to swim while Brenda relaxed on the beach, but our plans were foiled by a hammerhead shark. (Note that the native Australians swimming in the background do not seem to be particularly worried.)
What to See: Do ALL the tourist stuff. I know it’s corny, but it’s worth it. Sydney is a rapidly-growing world-class city with stellar public transit, entertainment, dining, and architecture – I’ve never been so impressed. (Can I move?)
What to Skip: You can climb the Harbour Bridge…but you’ll be strapped into a thick body suit on top of your clothes, it’s wise to avoid it in the middle of summer. (Alternatively, grab a sunrise or evening slot.)
Wellington
December 18 + 19: We departed Sydney early on the 18th and caught a – you guessed it! – 3 hour flight to Wellington, New Zealand. It’s worth noting that the customs and security experience on the bottom half of the planet is SO MUCH BETTER than ours. Laptops stay in bags! Shoes stay on feet! And somehow, after nearly 2 decades, New Zealand airport security agents were the ONLY PEOPLE to ever spot and examine Brenda’s travel scissors.
The next 48 hours are a total blur – it was windy. It was wet. We were freezing – so much so that we needed to buy layers! – but we loved Wellington. (James Cameron and Peter Jackson call it home for a reason!) I was particularly charmed by the vernacular design details – the sweet manhole covers; the thoughtful bollards; even the crossing signs featured images of the Haka! (A quick clip is on my Instagram – I just loved it.)
We embarked on a quick walking food tour of the city, and I need to highlight a favorite: the KB Kombucha Tap Room. Y’all, I love Kombucha. I’ve tried them all! But this kombucha is NEXT LEVEL – smooth and flavorful, without the acidic/sour bite that all my friends whine about. If you’re a food and beverage importer, PLEASE BRING THIS TO AMERICA. I will buy $5 bottles until the end of time.
We closed our time in Wellington with a trip to the Te Papa Museum, which is BY FAR the best interactive museum I’ve ever visited. The staff is so passionate about sharing their knowledge and the exhibits are fresh and engaging (think “a real-life giant squid you can walk around” and “a life-size whale heart model for kids to climb in”).
What to See: Te Papa Museum! I could have spent a whole day here, if time allowed. Peter Jackson (of Lord of the Rings fame) produced some of the exhibits, so the production value is extraordinary. Cuba Street is great for galleries, vintage stores, cafes, etc. And do some shopping, too – the conversion rate is AMAZING. ($1 USD = $1.81 NZD!)
What to Skip: The wind and weather rained on our parade here, so we left a lot unexplored. Drop your tips in the comments, please!
Blenheim & Marlborough
December 20 + 21: We woke up on the morning of the 20th to a special treat: our travel plans had fallen through, and we would now be taking a tiny propeller plane on a 30 minute flight to the South Island. It was windy, terrifying, and SO MUCH FUN.
We landed and immediately drove to Picton, a small tourist town on the shores of Marlbourough Sounds. We boarded a boat (spoiler: we are on a boat nearly every day for the rest of the trip) and took a lunchtime cruise through the Sounds. I couldn’t get over the beautiful homes dotting the coast, and we met a handful of locals who were kayaking home after grabbing coffee in town. Can you imagine living here and kayaking for your morning coffee? WHAT A DREAM.
The food on our boat was FABULOUS. Our captain prepared the best salmon I’ve ever had – not joking, I’m still thinking about it! – and we snacked on huge, local green mussels with soy and chili sauce as we sailed past stunning homes and massive fauna. (Since we were in Marlborough, the local Sauvignon Blanc was flowing, too.) After lunch, we tossed leftover mussels back into the water and watched as swarms of blue cod emerged from the depths to feed.
The next morning, we made our way to Kaituna Ridges, a working sheep farm in Blenheim. We were greeted by not one, not two, but NINE friendly herding dogs – it felt like heaven. The owners, Freddie and Nikita, are a bit younger than me (!!!) and I’m SO IMPRESSED by the incredible business they’ve built. (I was also awed by these dogs, who made quick work of the rugged mountain terrain.)
We arrived amidst sheep shearing season, so Freddie graciously showed us how it’s done. I was so taken by the entire process that I splurged on this 100% lambswool blanket, made from wool sheared in this exact spot! It’s an incredible souvenir that has been claimed by Buffalo – she loves it. I’m so, so, so pleased to have such a precious (and functional) memento! Sign up for their mailing list to get a notification when their online store launches!
That afternoon, we popped into Wither Hills Winery for lunch. I felt like I was in a Windows 95 screensaver – the landscape was STUNNING (and the Sauvignon Blanc was phenomenal – you can grab it locally at a great price! It’s absolutely my new go-to bottle for dinner parties and host gifts). That evening, we found ourselves dining amongst Peter Jackson’s plane collection at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Museum.
What to See: Marlborough Sounds, and as many wineries as you’re able to fit in (they’re world-famous for a reason). You’ll also be surrounded by sheep – take an afternoon to visit a working farm! (Or tell Kaituna Ridges I sent you – you couldn’t support nicer folks.)
What to Skip: I’m not a big war gal, so the Omaka experience was lost on me. If you’re into aviation or battle, you might love it! But I’d prioritize enjoying the beautiful scenery outdoors.
Te Anau & Milford Sound
December 22 + 23: We slept in a bit on the 22nd before catching a 90 minute flight to Tea Anau, a tiny town on the South Island. Brenda is a trooper, so she agreed to catch a ferry with me so we could crawl through a cave (not a joke) in an attempt to see glowworms.
If you’re not familiar, glowworms are exactly what they sound like – tiny, glowing cave dwellers that light up. I’ve always wanted to see some in real life – they’ve been on my bucket list for years! – and I’m not being hyperbolic when I say that experiencing them firsthand was akin to a religious experience. (This National Geographic video might help you visualize a bit better – fast forward to :54 for the full glow experience.)
We weren’t allowed to take photos in the cave (it’s dark, dangerous, and you need your eyes to adjust!) but I’ll never forget the sight of millions of tiny specks of light shining on every surface. It felt like floating in space. I could only think about the people who came before me – how magical and holy must this cave have felt with nothing but a torch? They must have thought they’d found a path to the stars. (The Te Anau glowworm cave was actually re-discovered in 1948 – an explorer read a Maori legend about a cave filled with glowing light; he searched for 3 years until he found it.)
The next morning, we made an iconic 2 hour drive to the Milford Sound. You can get here by helicopter, plane, car, or boat, but we really enjoyed our bus ride.
Milford Sound is STUNNING. Full stop. It’s packed with waterfalls, cliff faces, and even a few friendly seals. When we returned to Te Anau, we popped in to the local cinema – built by the town’s helicopter magnate – and watched a quick film on the Sound (there’s a shot of the above waterfall at the 1 minute mark that’ll take your breath away). We’d been awed by the experience in the water, but seeing it from the air on the big screen put everything into perspective. (That waterfall, for example, is 3 times as tall as Niagara Falls!)
What to See: GLOWWORM CAVE. This was by far my favorite experience, and nothing comparable exists anywhere else in the world. Go!!! (Full disclosure: if you’re claustrophobic or scared of being deep inside a cave, you will want to skip this. It did cross my mind that an earthquake could trap us, but that thought was replaced by pure wonder as soon as I spotted glowworms.)
What to Skip: You may be tempted to splurge on a flight to Milford Sound – don’t! The drive is absolutely worth the time.
Queenstown
December 24 + 25: HELLO, I HAVE THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS ITINERARY FOR YOU! This was the best Christmas of my life (and that’s saying something – I’ve had some great holidays!). 🙂
On the 24th, we drove along the shores of Lake Wakatipu on our way to Queenstown. We stopped in for lunch at Kinross Winery, who prepared a meal so fabulous that I need to write about it here. THOSE PEACHES! The wine pairings! I loved it.
We arrived in Queenstown and discovered a bevy of paragliders right outside our hotel window – I couldn’t have been more charmed. Queenstown is the adventure capital of New Zealand for a reason (as we were about to discover).
We hopped on a gondola and made our way to the top of Bob’s Peak, which was only a quick jaunt from our hotel. I loved all the lupine, which dotted every roadway and mountainside. (Legend says that a bored housewife thought the scenery was boring, so she handed out seed packets everywhere she went to beautify the land.) There’s lots to do up top – go karting, restaurants, gift shops, etc. – but we loved soaking in the view. Check out that airplane flying just over the mountain peak!
I was woken on Christmas morning by Brenda throwing me a festive shirt and a pair of reindeer ears. We embarked on a treacherous drive to Skippers Canyon, which was correctly described to us as “a little bumpy, not to mention scary!!!” (emphasis theirs). If you’ve ever dreamed of driving on a narrow one-way road that’s been blown into the side of a mountain with no security rails, Skippers’ Canyon is right up your alley!!!
We survived, though, and made our way down to the Shotover River for a morning of jet boating. If you’ve never been on a jet boat before, I’ll sum it up like this: IT’S CRAZY. Imagine a speed boat that can drift like a car, spin on a dime and travel over rocks. I spent the entire ride convinced that my skull was about to be cracked open (but, like, in the fun way). We both LOVED it. (I’ll post a video on my Instagram for context.)
After our terrifying 2 hour morning drive, Brenda and I – two traditionally helicopter-averse women – were thrilled to take a 15 minute helicopter ride back into Queenstown. It was my first time riding in one, and it was surreal – IT WAS CHRISTMAS! We were in NEW ZEALAND! We were riding in a freakin’ HELICOPTER!
We kept our celebration going with a fancy Christmas meal at an absolutely packed McDonalds, which was the only open restaurant in Queenstown. A Christmas we’ll never forget, indeed 🙂 I don’t know if any holiday will ever be able to top this one, honestly.
What to See: There are tons of jet boat experiences available in New Zealand – Skippers’ Canyon is a cut above the rest. (The river makes for a more fun experience – skip the ones on lakes or in open water.) The town is easy to navigate on foot, too – give yourself a day to walk around!
What to Skip: Kiwi Park. We did see a Kiwi, but the experience is tainted by folks who can’t seem to put their phone away. (Kiwis are nocturnal, so they’re shown in a darkened room.) I loved seeing their Tuataras, though!
Auckland & Waiheke Island
December 26 + 27 + 28: The next day, we grabbed a 3 hour flight to Auckland. I took no photos and do not remember most of what happened, outside of eating pasta near a beach. I chalk this up to exhaustion and/or too much dopamine. Maybe both, TBH.
On the 27th, we hopped on a ferry to Waiheke Island. Our guide, a former sommelier, filled us in on all the local haunts. We stopped at The Heke Distillery for a whiskey and beer tasting before heading to Mudbrick Winery for lunch. Y’all, MUDBRICK IS STUNNING. I’ve been to a handful of stunning wineries in California – Sonoma, Napa, Paso Robles, Temecula, you name it – but none hold a candle to this hilltop dream with views of Auckland in the distance.
On our final day in Auckland, I dragged Brenda to a handful of vintage and antique stores. I gotta hand it to you Australians and New Zealanders – you value your time off! Nearly every storefront had a “closed for the holidays,” “closed til January 6th,” or “closed til January 13th” sign out front. Luckily, we found a few great spots! I really enjoyed a store called Vitrine, in particular – the curation was fantastic. It felt like an Olive Ateliers for New Zealand!
I ended up grabbing this vintage…sculptural object? Vessel? Wooden thing? (I’m going to be honest – I have NO IDEA what it is, if you couldn’t tell) in a store that I did not take the name of. I think 3 weeks of travel melted my brain a bit! But I can’t wait to shoot my bedroom – this piece will be holding court on my brass dresser alongside the UFO-shaped vessel I grabbed at Downtown Modernism. It was meant to be 🙂
What to See: I’m not exaggerating when I say that nearly everything in Auckland was (rightfully) closed. So, uh, keep that in mind if you’re ever planning your Christmas travel, you know?
What to Skip: We skipped almost everything (again, not necessarily by choice!) and still had a great time.
That night – 12/28 – we caught an 8 PM flight back to LA. Our arrival time? 11 AM, 12/28. We travelled into the past! Brenda and I spent the day napping in my apartment, and I dropped her off at LAX early the next morning for her return flight back to the east coast. WE DID IT! We spent 25 straight days together within 10 feet of one another! And we still love each other!!!
As we travelled, I heard one comment more frequently than any other: “It’s so nice that you’re spending this time together! I could never convince my kids to come on a long trip like that with me.” To which I say: yes, it is nice! But honestly, there’s no one I’d rather travel with. Brenda is patient, funny, kind, smart, and so easy to spend time with – I’d go on a million month-long trips with her! We didn’t start traveling internationally together until 2022, but each trip we’ve taken has been longer (and better!) than the last. I hit the jackpot when I landed her as my mom!!! (Shoutout Brenda! See you soon!)
But I also hit the jackpot when I started working at EHD. I have the most generous boss (thank you, Em, for letting me go on these crazy adventures!), and the most supportive coworkers who have my back and who covered for me without a second thought. I just feel so grateful for it all, you know? The stars (or glowworms?) really aligned. I’m the luckiest girl in the world. 🙂
I guess that’s where I’ll leave you – my master guide of everything I loved in Australia and New Zealand. Any other tips? Any places I should hit next time? (I have to go back.) Anyone in Sydney or Melbourne or Tropical North Queensland wanna trade apartments for a month? Any other travel stories, mother-daughter travel stories, or general questions/complaints? LET’S TALK ABOUT IT! xxxxx
THIS POST WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED HERE.
